The Over 40 Princess

Okay, I said it. There. I’m standing by it too. They believe because a, “doctor said it,” that it’s automatically true. Bull-Pucky! I’m not just standing up for my business here, I’m standing up for all mineral makeup companies run out of people’s homes, small offices and teeny companies. We need to support small, American Brewed Companies and the current swirl of poo-tornado traveling through the US was started by a man I normally admire, Dr. Oz. Grrrr.

Stop saying anything with bad research, just to gain ratings. We, as mineral makeup artists, and we do make art, are well versed in the current science and best information out there. Why is this important? Because I’m about to open my own Mineral Makeup Company? No! Because I’m on forums with people that make creating mineral products the safest, best-for-you product out there. We strive to share information so we give you a product that delivers, but keeps the consumers safety in mind. Yes, there are idiots out there who re-package, think this is easy (dear God. I have learned a universe about minerals and I knew nothing), and it’s not.

Yes, I can buy a huge amount of ready-made product a charge a fortune for it, but those people are always caught. Always. It may take time, but it happens. The mineral community seems huge, but it’s not. We are less than 5000 products on Etsy, the competition is fierce, the market is not large and largely untapped. People like Doctor Oz are making broad sweeping statements about the safety and health hazards about all mineral makeup products based on a few large companies. Idiot. He won’t even respond to the small companies who have sent him e-mail after e-mail about the truth. So here it is. If you read my other blog, you know I, normally, have my ducks in a row. Not only are my ducks in a row here, they’re lined up by breed and sex.

1. All mineral makeup contains Bismuth Oxychloride.

Lie. I don’t use it and neither do most small companies. It’s a pointy little molecule that can gang up on you and make you itch. It’s in almost all of your over the counter makeup, even from large companies. Some say it’s cheap. It’s not, when you line it up with other stuff, but it give amazing luster. I’ve heard people say it’s akin to arsenic. It is close on the periodic table with heavy minerals and is a by-product of mining, however it does occur naturally. It does not contain arsenic. Rolls eyes, but there are darn good reasons not to use it without hysteria. Who wants to itch all day? Not me. If you think you cannot wear eyeshadow, check the back. Put on your reading glasses, what do you see? Bismuth Oxychloride. Dump it and avoid the itch. If you mineral makeup makes you itch when you sweat, look at the first three ingredients. Bismuth? Thought so. Almost all big mineral manufacturers put it in there.

Drugstore mineral makeup is especially bad. No, it’s especially cheap. If the ingredients are as long as your arm, then you’re looking at a regular product that takes advantage of some of the products of mineral makeup and passes it off as such. Don’t be fooled. Mineral makeup usually has a short list of ingredients when small companies make it. Hand picked products to help your skin. Inert products.

2. Cornstarch and Rice Powder:

If you have acne, you have the P. Acne Bacillus bacteria making a cozy little home in your face. Cornstarch and Rice flour feed it. It’s all natural, but you may break out more. I do, if there’s cornstarch in it. Cornstarch and Rice Powder are capable of going bad on you. Make sure your mineral makeup company labels all cornstarch and Rice powder products with a. “Best By,” date. Two years is the max.

Both ingredients are wonderful and have their place. Just know it’s not on skin like mine.

3. NANOPARTICLES!!!!

This is where the good doctor really screwed up. I don’t use nanoparticles. What are they? Micronized products smaller than one nanometer in size. We have dust smaller than that. There are some initial tests out there that have concerned me, and other companies enough to make us set them aside until further testing is done. It’s easier to formulate with them, but honestly, it’s a better and more fun challenge to formulate without. I know very few good quality small companies that use them. The final line that caught me? Another formulator said it, “I care too much about my clients to risk their health, until we have all the facts.” I stopped using them that day, even though I have a lot of money invested in them. I re-formulated from the ground up. We all have. So the statement that all mineral companies use them is patently false. End of story.

4: DYES HELP YOU DIE!

Some dyes are in question. I don’t use those. I do make a choice to use them, but everything is clearly labelled. Afraid of dyes? Look at the companies you’re buying from now. Look at the foods you eat. Think before you run in fear. Read studies. Stay on top of what you put in your body.

5. Colors from Nature are better.

Do they have a preservative? If not, you have germ soup and their still processed. No one is putting bananas in your makeup whole. No one.

6. Minerals are all natural.

Sort of. Oxides are grown in a lab to make sure the color is right. It’s all out of the earth, but they can’t pull rust off cars. The FDA regulates two important things in makeup. Color, to assure it’s safety and ingredient lists, to ensure you’re not lying to your customers. In the State Of Michigan they inspect my scales to make sure you’re getting what you paid for. I don’t worry about that. I calibrate once a week. Most companies do. Short products get a company closed, fast and the word travels.

7. Better to be safe than sorry and get rid of mineral makeup.

Why? When you know you’re getting quality makeup with few ingredients and beautiful payout, why? No reason at all. A good formulator knows what’s in their products and are proud as all get out, about them. They are happy to mail you samples (usually for a small fee) and answer any of your questions. What should your questions be?

Do you use Nanoparticles? If yes, why? Listen to the answer. The testing is not in right now. They may have a good reason.

Do you repackage? I use colors with products I cannot make. I always put them in with products to give them adhesion and blendability. I never re-pack colors you can buy for a buck fifty from my supplier. Legal? Yes. Ethical? Not one bit, in my personal opinion.

Do you use Bismuth Oxychloride?

If the company comes off as anything, but cheerful to answer questions, (a reasonable number, not give you their formulas), then you are probably in the presence of someone who really cares about you and not only the bottom line. It’s hard work to make a goo product that is creamy, stays on, looks gorgeous and has all the properties you want in makeup without some of the things you are antsy about. You can also look for companies that offer vegan products and what about talc? What about it? It had some arsenic in it back in the ’80’s. We were all scared to death of it and switched to cornstarch and wondered why rashes never cleared up? Talc now has NO arsenic in it. It’s in most of the high-end makeup you buy. I use it in some products, but they are clearly labelled up front and the talc is kept in another part of my formulary. I’d say do your research and try it. Not just the Material Safety Data Sheets either. They make Cornstarch sound like the devil, and we cook with it and have forever. They are required to use the worst case scenario.

What about websites to, “help the consumer choose?” Are they selling anything of their own? I’m suspicious. Especially when broad sweeping statements are made. No product is Satan. Some are both good and bad. Are you inhaling tons of stuff in the air all the time? Yes. When you use mineral makeup you should not be forcing it into your pores in a fifty foot cloud of dust. Even I wear a mask when handling raw product. Mostly for my consumers. I don’t want to sneeze. It’s just safe. I also alcohol it all down, all the time.

Any website that picks and chooses, talks about the glories of Cornstarch and the evils of other products, while not posting the MDS sheet on cornstarch is picking and choosing. They are out there promoting fear of makeup. We have nothing to fear, but fear mongers. Ask good questions. Know your formulator. I buy my supplies from a handful of companies that I 100% trust. I know the people behind the names. I suggest you do too. Will it help me? Sure, I’m not all sunshine and roses, but it also helps the small company that does it because it’s a passion and an art. Not an easy way to take advantage of an industry that is growing and being bashed by people who did not do their research. I blame his producers.

As of this date, Dr Oz has been contacted by hundreds of small mineral makeup companies, asking for a retraction. They deserve it and he deserves to share the truth with his viewers. This is an opportunity for him to talk about people who have your health at the heart of their missions. By not retracting his statements that make sweeping statements about, “all” mineral makeup companies, after receiving letter after letter about it, it seems ratings matter more than the truth to people who help run his show. I have boycotted anyone who makes those statements about any company. No company is all bad. Many are out for a buck, but when you add a board of directors and people who care about ratings, you’ve probably done your people a disservice. Not all big mineral makeup companies use nanoparticles and Bismuth Oxychloride. Read the labels. The FDA cracks down on labeling violations, fast. If your company is in compliance, they will be thrilled you asked. If they get defensive, ask why? Worse, if someone contacts you and asks you about why you made a sweeping generalization ask, “what’s in it for them.” I know people are smart enough to figure it out on their own. Just think.

Love this cleanser

Last summer, I’d say August, I was given a sample of, “Baby Face Cleanse.” I’d expressed frustration with every other makeup remover I’d tried. My eyelids are very sensitive and always red. If I drag most makeup removers over them, including ones for sensitive eyes, they actually peel. That makes it hard for me to wear eye makeup and I’m a makeup artist. Sheesh.

So the woman at Lush handed me a sliver of, “Baby Face.” Which seemed impossibly small. I got on the Internet and researched the product. Armed with my information and my sliver of Baby Face, a face full of waterproof makeup, I hit the bathroom. My makeup came off. I mean right away, even the waterproof stuff. ALL OF IT! Okay, great, but my face is so dang oily, I feel like I can power every car in Michigan. This was BOUND to lead to breakouts.

Next morning, no flaking skin (I took it off with a damp facial sponge and washed with my normal cleanser) and NO NEW ZITS! IK am forty six and break out like a teen. No zits means the world to me. I used my sliver, and used it, and used it and used it. That stupid sliver of, “Baby Face,” lasted months. I mean of everyday use. I finally got it small enough to justify buying it for myself. Forget it. I cut it up and put it in small bags for my clients. I’ll buy another one for me. Okay, maybe more than one. I want to pass this around. On days I plan a deep clean, complete with careful and taught, blackhead extraction (almost all gone now), I use, “Baby Face,” first, then wash with my regular stuff after and my face does not get red, or inflamed. I recently had three moles removed and am using an anti-bacterial product during the day and, Baby Face, at night. My scars are healing nicely. I also used it on a recent tattoo (family names on it and a special something for my son who passed) and the healing is great. Only one small area that is stubborn and that’s because I scratched at it, before I started in on the, Baby Face.”

This is a product I would give a ten out of ten for. Does what it says, does not break out the break out Queen and has wonderful abilities to get stubborn eye makeup off. Go Lush!

Note, “Baby Face,” is a solid cleanser, meant for dry skin. Its oil based and probably comedigenic. If I were a Teen, I would not think of using it. As an older woman, even with breakouts, it’s a Godsend, but I never leave it on for long, except were I am healing something. It’s a great product.

Today I used a coupon and a discount a Ulta (amaz-a-balls, they let me use both) on two packages of Maybelline’s new Eye Studio Shadow Palettes. I picked up Sapphire Siren and Give Me Gold (yes please). Both have itty bitty pics on the back to show you how to use all four colors together. Okay, I think that dark line near the lashes is the darkest color. I can’t find my reading glasses.

Both have a HUGE light color, which indicates, to me, that you’re supposed to use that all over your lid, up to your brow-bone, where it becomes your brow highlight. It’s also shown clearly on the inner corner of the eyes.

Although the pictures are clear, again, small. I’m going by what I can see on the package. I like the idea on the package and am impressed with the simplicity of the use of the colors. You’re using four, but you’ve got one under all and the rest are not mixed. Seems like anyone, even me, should be able to master this one the first time out.

Okay, time to open and look at piggie samples. I’m prying the cover off the Gold one. The dark colors can look incredibly pigmented on the hand, but not the eye. It’s the light colors you want to really give a good going over to.

I immediately stuck my thumbnail into the damn color. Lovely. In the case of this palette, not the other one, the first two colors are virtually identical. Rendering no need for one, or the other. Yes, the second color is a tad deeper, but deep enough to justify it? Maybe not.

All colors are quite shimmery, with not a matte in site. Obvious when I purchased them, but in case your store is super lighted, you might miss that. Shimmer shows up best in slightly darker light.

Both palette’s are usable, day or night, even with the shimmer. These colors were one each of the brightest and the most neutral and I’m not sure they could intermix. One is very cool and the other almost neutral, with a tad of warmth in there.

The, “applicators,” are useless to me. That’s normal. I use brushes and that, is that. I also use a good shadow primer with all of my powders and often a paint pot beneath.

I’m looking forward to playing and taking some eye pics. Probably a You Tube Review soon.

Nancy