The Over 40 Princess

March 17, 2010

Don’t Let Fear Mongering Scare You. Truth in Makeup

Okay, I said it. There. I’m standing by it too. They believe because a, “doctor said it,” that it’s automatically true. Bull-Pucky! I’m not just standing up for my business here, I’m standing up for all mineral makeup companies run out of people’s homes, small offices and teeny companies. We need to support small, American Brewed Companies and the current swirl of poo-tornado traveling through the US was started by a man I normally admire, Dr. Oz. Grrrr.

Stop saying anything with bad research, just to gain ratings. We, as mineral makeup artists, and we do make art, are well versed in the current science and best information out there. Why is this important? Because I’m about to open my own Mineral Makeup Company? No! Because I’m on forums with people that make creating mineral products the safest, best-for-you product out there. We strive to share information so we give you a product that delivers, but keeps the consumers safety in mind. Yes, there are idiots out there who re-package, think this is easy (dear God. I have learned a universe about minerals and I knew nothing), and it’s not.

Yes, I can buy a huge amount of ready-made product a charge a fortune for it, but those people are always caught. Always. It may take time, but it happens. The mineral community seems huge, but it’s not. We are less than 5000 products on Etsy, the competition is fierce, the market is not large and largely untapped. People like Doctor Oz are making broad sweeping statements about the safety and health hazards about all mineral makeup products based on a few large companies. Idiot. He won’t even respond to the small companies who have sent him e-mail after e-mail about the truth. So here it is. If you read my other blog, you know I, normally, have my ducks in a row. Not only are my ducks in a row here, they’re lined up by breed and sex.

1. All mineral makeup contains Bismuth Oxychloride.

Lie. I don’t use it and neither do most small companies. It’s a pointy little molecule that can gang up on you and make you itch. It’s in almost all of your over the counter makeup, even from large companies. Some say it’s cheap. It’s not, when you line it up with other stuff, but it give amazing luster. I’ve heard people say it’s akin to arsenic. It is close on the periodic table with heavy minerals and is a by-product of mining, however it does occur naturally. It does not contain arsenic. Rolls eyes, but there are darn good reasons not to use it without hysteria. Who wants to itch all day? Not me. If you think you cannot wear eyeshadow, check the back. Put on your reading glasses, what do you see? Bismuth Oxychloride. Dump it and avoid the itch. If you mineral makeup makes you itch when you sweat, look at the first three ingredients. Bismuth? Thought so. Almost all big mineral manufacturers put it in there.

Drugstore mineral makeup is especially bad. No, it’s especially cheap. If the ingredients are as long as your arm, then you’re looking at a regular product that takes advantage of some of the products of mineral makeup and passes it off as such. Don’t be fooled. Mineral makeup usually has a short list of ingredients when small companies make it. Hand picked products to help your skin. Inert products.

2. Cornstarch and Rice Powder:

If you have acne, you have the P. Acne Bacillus bacteria making a cozy little home in your face. Cornstarch and Rice flour feed it. It’s all natural, but you may break out more. I do, if there’s cornstarch in it. Cornstarch and Rice Powder are capable of going bad on you. Make sure your mineral makeup company labels all cornstarch and Rice powder products with a. “Best By,” date. Two years is the max.

Both ingredients are wonderful and have their place. Just know it’s not on skin like mine.

3. NANOPARTICLES!!!!

This is where the good doctor really screwed up. I don’t use nanoparticles. What are they? Micronized products smaller than one nanometer in size. We have dust smaller than that. There are some initial tests out there that have concerned me, and other companies enough to make us set them aside until further testing is done. It’s easier to formulate with them, but honestly, it’s a better and more fun challenge to formulate without. I know very few good quality small companies that use them. The final line that caught me? Another formulator said it, “I care too much about my clients to risk their health, until we have all the facts.” I stopped using them that day, even though I have a lot of money invested in them. I re-formulated from the ground up. We all have. So the statement that all mineral companies use them is patently false. End of story.

4: DYES HELP YOU DIE!

Some dyes are in question. I don’t use those. I do make a choice to use them, but everything is clearly labelled. Afraid of dyes? Look at the companies you’re buying from now. Look at the foods you eat. Think before you run in fear. Read studies. Stay on top of what you put in your body.

5. Colors from Nature are better.

Do they have a preservative? If not, you have germ soup and their still processed. No one is putting bananas in your makeup whole. No one.

6. Minerals are all natural.

Sort of. Oxides are grown in a lab to make sure the color is right. It’s all out of the earth, but they can’t pull rust off cars. The FDA regulates two important things in makeup. Color, to assure it’s safety and ingredient lists, to ensure you’re not lying to your customers. In the State Of Michigan they inspect my scales to make sure you’re getting what you paid for. I don’t worry about that. I calibrate once a week. Most companies do. Short products get a company closed, fast and the word travels.

7. Better to be safe than sorry and get rid of mineral makeup.

Why? When you know you’re getting quality makeup with few ingredients and beautiful payout, why? No reason at all. A good formulator knows what’s in their products and are proud as all get out, about them. They are happy to mail you samples (usually for a small fee) and answer any of your questions. What should your questions be?

Do you use Nanoparticles? If yes, why? Listen to the answer. The testing is not in right now. They may have a good reason.

Do you repackage? I use colors with products I cannot make. I always put them in with products to give them adhesion and blendability. I never re-pack colors you can buy for a buck fifty from my supplier. Legal? Yes. Ethical? Not one bit, in my personal opinion.

Do you use Bismuth Oxychloride?

If the company comes off as anything, but cheerful to answer questions, (a reasonable number, not give you their formulas), then you are probably in the presence of someone who really cares about you and not only the bottom line. It’s hard work to make a goo product that is creamy, stays on, looks gorgeous and has all the properties you want in makeup without some of the things you are antsy about. You can also look for companies that offer vegan products and what about talc? What about it? It had some arsenic in it back in the ’80’s. We were all scared to death of it and switched to cornstarch and wondered why rashes never cleared up? Talc now has NO arsenic in it. It’s in most of the high-end makeup you buy. I use it in some products, but they are clearly labelled up front and the talc is kept in another part of my formulary. I’d say do your research and try it. Not just the Material Safety Data Sheets either. They make Cornstarch sound like the devil, and we cook with it and have forever. They are required to use the worst case scenario.

What about websites to, “help the consumer choose?” Are they selling anything of their own? I’m suspicious. Especially when broad sweeping statements are made. No product is Satan. Some are both good and bad. Are you inhaling tons of stuff in the air all the time? Yes. When you use mineral makeup you should not be forcing it into your pores in a fifty foot cloud of dust. Even I wear a mask when handling raw product. Mostly for my consumers. I don’t want to sneeze. It’s just safe. I also alcohol it all down, all the time.

Any website that picks and chooses, talks about the glories of Cornstarch and the evils of other products, while not posting the MDS sheet on cornstarch is picking and choosing. They are out there promoting fear of makeup. We have nothing to fear, but fear mongers. Ask good questions. Know your formulator. I buy my supplies from a handful of companies that I 100% trust. I know the people behind the names. I suggest you do too. Will it help me? Sure, I’m not all sunshine and roses, but it also helps the small company that does it because it’s a passion and an art. Not an easy way to take advantage of an industry that is growing and being bashed by people who did not do their research. I blame his producers.

As of this date, Dr Oz has been contacted by hundreds of small mineral makeup companies, asking for a retraction. They deserve it and he deserves to share the truth with his viewers. This is an opportunity for him to talk about people who have your health at the heart of their missions. By not retracting his statements that make sweeping statements about, “all” mineral makeup companies, after receiving letter after letter about it, it seems ratings matter more than the truth to people who help run his show. I have boycotted anyone who makes those statements about any company. No company is all bad. Many are out for a buck, but when you add a board of directors and people who care about ratings, you’ve probably done your people a disservice. Not all big mineral makeup companies use nanoparticles and Bismuth Oxychloride. Read the labels. The FDA cracks down on labeling violations, fast. If your company is in compliance, they will be thrilled you asked. If they get defensive, ask why? Worse, if someone contacts you and asks you about why you made a sweeping generalization ask, “what’s in it for them.” I know people are smart enough to figure it out on their own. Just think.

October 29, 2009

What do You Really Need in that Bag of Tricks?

Sure, it’s a hoot to shop for makeup and jewelry, clothes, purses and SHOES! I have a bit of a shoe addiction, but what do you need when you are 1. Starting out in the corporate world, 2. School, 3. When you decide to get out of those sweats. These are my ideas. I would love to read yours.

Today, we’re going to talk about universal things. Not all of these are right for all circumstances, but most of them fit nicely into any of the lives I mentioned. Since I’ve lived all three lives, and more, we will start with the universals and narrow it day, by day, over the next week.

This is what I believe every woman should have in her closet. Do *YOU* need to have these? Heck no. This is just advice. Take what you like, dump the rest. I think it should go without saying that these need to be in your personal style. Hollywood Chic, Boho, Prep, Corporate, all call for different variations of these, oops, forgot romantic and a thousand others, but it should be said and there, I did it. Make these items your own. When I say, blue blazer (I won’t) think what you’re equivalent would be. A blue sweater you feel tailored and sexy in? Something with a military flair? Step outside your box and try on different trends. I’m conservative and wild, all at the same time. I have clothes that are both and work together. Today, I’m going over my wardrobe staples and my pattern staples in my vlog. It’s fashionista Thursday. So read this and follow me on twitter and face-book. For the full list.

Today, pieces to spend the bucks on.

A. Clothing
Jeans that make you feel pretty. Not mom jeans. Dear God! If it goes to your waist and flairs at your hips, avoid it. I like Old Navy Jeans. Why? They carry an array of fits and washes. Unless you’re rolling in it, don’t buy distressed new jeans. Go to the thrift store with tights under a skirt, and try on jeans until you find a pair you can distress. We will be doing this next week on my new vlog.

A sweater. Boho, or boyfriend, this should reflect you, and be nice enough for a date. I have a new H&M sweater that’s short, and military with gold buttons. It has limited seasons, so I spent very little on it. If it was Channel-like, I would have spent more.

Crisp white shirt. Never goes out of style. Put your bucks here. Again, make it yours. Don’t wear Brooks Brothers if the thought nauseates you. Just fine one you love.

Well fitted white T. Again, put some money in it and make sure it actually fits. Not a sloppy 3X Hanes. We all know you weight what you weigh. Celebrate it. You’re not hiding in that ratty old thing.

A slim skirt that skims your knee. Avoid the widest part of your calf. Not a mini either. You should be able to wear this in ten. I’m artsy-fartsy when I dress. I’m designing a slim skirt with zippers in it. The odder the places, the better. This is not what everyone wears, but it works better for me than a Brooks Brothers skirt and I’m getting what I want, to pair with one of my dad’s old Brooks Brothers shirts I altered, or the white shirt, or the sweater, T, you get it.

Black pants. Good ones. Ones that fit you. Lined is nice, if it’s a good lining. No front pleats, I don’t care that they are back in style. You’re hiding exactly nothing. I detest front pleats.

A longer fuller skirt. You can go short on this too, but if it hits your calf below your heavy part, that’s sexy and wonderful and fun. Your fabrics and style are what make it yours. I have to make mine. No one makes a pattern like it and I’ve never seen it in the stores. I’ve made this skirt in the same style in six sizes now. I’m making my final one this week.

A black dress. Wild, mild, everything in between. Do not sacrifice personal style to be conservative at funerals. Wear what’s you, but polished. Covet will send you a daily e-mail with good sales in it and allows you to tell them what you like. You can really find your personal style there and good ideas for purchases and things to sew. Don’t know how to sew? Get a good quality, inexpensive machine (I like Janome, Kenmore and Brother) and teach yourself the basics, or get a friend to. There are a billion easy patterns out there and the woman at JoAnn’s are happy to help you. Go first thing in the AM on a weekday. Take the time off. It’s worth it. Take some sewing classes, again, worth it.

a wrap dress. There is more than one style and some are mock wraps. I like a jersey with a nice hand (the way the fabric moves and flows on your skin and hand as you feel it). Smooth, flowey and an unexpected color, or pattern.

A good scarf. Save for a Hermes, buy a close one till then. Silk only. Thank you. What do you mean, what do you do with it? Belt, necklace, hair bow, fifties look, wrapped around your arm like a bracelet and tied in a bow (get help), use your imagination. They’ve never gone out of style. Oh, head wear, like a motorcycle goddess.

Jewelry

One pair real gold hoops, any size
One pair real silver hoops, or while gold
One pair pearls. Stop! I’, not talking fusty aunt Grace’s things, I mean freshwater strands that wrap around your neck forever, chunky odd shapes you string yourself. Any color, any style as long as it’s you. Can’t afford the real thing? Well, freshwater pearls are not expensive, but if you need fakes, get good fakes.
Cool ring, one in gold tone and one in silver. Please make sure your finger does not turn green under it.
bracelets. I own a wide variety. Watch. Mine are either sports, Ann Klein, or men’s. I want more and I will buy good knockoffs as long as they don’t say the designers name on them. That does hurt the designer.

Shoes
Tall boots
Short boots
pumps
sandals
exercise shoes

All in your style and all comfortable. Zappo’s is a great place for shoes online. I love them. Also Payless. Yes, Payless. If it’s trendy, that’s where I get them and I wear them a lot, because trends die.

Purse:
Your choice, quality.

Makeup:
Foundation (really research this)
Eye shadow (get one kind and learn how to use it, first. Then, you can go nuts)
Mascara, the best one you can afford
Lipstick. Try this on till you love it. If you can’t afford super expensive, go to Sephora and pick out a color scheme that looks good on you, make a note of it for the future, then march yourself to a drugstore and try to match it. You should be able to come close.
A good cleansing regime for your skin. Period. Spend on it, if you have to. This is your face and it’s important.
I read Makeup Alley like a good novel. The reviews matter to me.
There, I’ve hit most of it. Just the beginning parts and you will need to add pieces. Stuff that works long term. In artsy that would be anything. We can get away with maxi skirts when they’ve been out for years. We’re crafty. In classic, classic. Brooks Brothers and Talbots are good places to start, so is Coldwater Creek. You would not catch me dead in any of those stores. No wild. Goth? Well, you know where to go for that.

Take a friend who’s open minded and who’s style you admire. Take a mental health day together and prowl. Sales are great right now, even for in-season stuff. Hit thrift stores for a divine coat you can change the buttons on, make a belt for, embroider, paint on, make your own. I will NEVER buy a new coat again, as long as I live. I find amazing stuff at the local thrift store. Shop online. I’ll start with the links any day now. Oh, and if you’ve not subscribed to my YouTube videos, please do so. I’m having a contest and the winner gets Diorshow mascara in their choice of types and color. All you gotta do is sign up.

Have fun and play with your looks, till you know what you love. Don’t worry about what’s in style now. Make it timeless and classic, in your own way.