The Over 40 Princess

March 17, 2010

Don’t Let Fear Mongering Scare You. Truth in Makeup

Okay, I said it. There. I’m standing by it too. They believe because a, “doctor said it,” that it’s automatically true. Bull-Pucky! I’m not just standing up for my business here, I’m standing up for all mineral makeup companies run out of people’s homes, small offices and teeny companies. We need to support small, American Brewed Companies and the current swirl of poo-tornado traveling through the US was started by a man I normally admire, Dr. Oz. Grrrr.

Stop saying anything with bad research, just to gain ratings. We, as mineral makeup artists, and we do make art, are well versed in the current science and best information out there. Why is this important? Because I’m about to open my own Mineral Makeup Company? No! Because I’m on forums with people that make creating mineral products the safest, best-for-you product out there. We strive to share information so we give you a product that delivers, but keeps the consumers safety in mind. Yes, there are idiots out there who re-package, think this is easy (dear God. I have learned a universe about minerals and I knew nothing), and it’s not.

Yes, I can buy a huge amount of ready-made product a charge a fortune for it, but those people are always caught. Always. It may take time, but it happens. The mineral community seems huge, but it’s not. We are less than 5000 products on Etsy, the competition is fierce, the market is not large and largely untapped. People like Doctor Oz are making broad sweeping statements about the safety and health hazards about all mineral makeup products based on a few large companies. Idiot. He won’t even respond to the small companies who have sent him e-mail after e-mail about the truth. So here it is. If you read my other blog, you know I, normally, have my ducks in a row. Not only are my ducks in a row here, they’re lined up by breed and sex.

1. All mineral makeup contains Bismuth Oxychloride.

Lie. I don’t use it and neither do most small companies. It’s a pointy little molecule that can gang up on you and make you itch. It’s in almost all of your over the counter makeup, even from large companies. Some say it’s cheap. It’s not, when you line it up with other stuff, but it give amazing luster. I’ve heard people say it’s akin to arsenic. It is close on the periodic table with heavy minerals and is a by-product of mining, however it does occur naturally. It does not contain arsenic. Rolls eyes, but there are darn good reasons not to use it without hysteria. Who wants to itch all day? Not me. If you think you cannot wear eyeshadow, check the back. Put on your reading glasses, what do you see? Bismuth Oxychloride. Dump it and avoid the itch. If you mineral makeup makes you itch when you sweat, look at the first three ingredients. Bismuth? Thought so. Almost all big mineral manufacturers put it in there.

Drugstore mineral makeup is especially bad. No, it’s especially cheap. If the ingredients are as long as your arm, then you’re looking at a regular product that takes advantage of some of the products of mineral makeup and passes it off as such. Don’t be fooled. Mineral makeup usually has a short list of ingredients when small companies make it. Hand picked products to help your skin. Inert products.

2. Cornstarch and Rice Powder:

If you have acne, you have the P. Acne Bacillus bacteria making a cozy little home in your face. Cornstarch and Rice flour feed it. It’s all natural, but you may break out more. I do, if there’s cornstarch in it. Cornstarch and Rice Powder are capable of going bad on you. Make sure your mineral makeup company labels all cornstarch and Rice powder products with a. “Best By,” date. Two years is the max.

Both ingredients are wonderful and have their place. Just know it’s not on skin like mine.

3. NANOPARTICLES!!!!

This is where the good doctor really screwed up. I don’t use nanoparticles. What are they? Micronized products smaller than one nanometer in size. We have dust smaller than that. There are some initial tests out there that have concerned me, and other companies enough to make us set them aside until further testing is done. It’s easier to formulate with them, but honestly, it’s a better and more fun challenge to formulate without. I know very few good quality small companies that use them. The final line that caught me? Another formulator said it, “I care too much about my clients to risk their health, until we have all the facts.” I stopped using them that day, even though I have a lot of money invested in them. I re-formulated from the ground up. We all have. So the statement that all mineral companies use them is patently false. End of story.

4: DYES HELP YOU DIE!

Some dyes are in question. I don’t use those. I do make a choice to use them, but everything is clearly labelled. Afraid of dyes? Look at the companies you’re buying from now. Look at the foods you eat. Think before you run in fear. Read studies. Stay on top of what you put in your body.

5. Colors from Nature are better.

Do they have a preservative? If not, you have germ soup and their still processed. No one is putting bananas in your makeup whole. No one.

6. Minerals are all natural.

Sort of. Oxides are grown in a lab to make sure the color is right. It’s all out of the earth, but they can’t pull rust off cars. The FDA regulates two important things in makeup. Color, to assure it’s safety and ingredient lists, to ensure you’re not lying to your customers. In the State Of Michigan they inspect my scales to make sure you’re getting what you paid for. I don’t worry about that. I calibrate once a week. Most companies do. Short products get a company closed, fast and the word travels.

7. Better to be safe than sorry and get rid of mineral makeup.

Why? When you know you’re getting quality makeup with few ingredients and beautiful payout, why? No reason at all. A good formulator knows what’s in their products and are proud as all get out, about them. They are happy to mail you samples (usually for a small fee) and answer any of your questions. What should your questions be?

Do you use Nanoparticles? If yes, why? Listen to the answer. The testing is not in right now. They may have a good reason.

Do you repackage? I use colors with products I cannot make. I always put them in with products to give them adhesion and blendability. I never re-pack colors you can buy for a buck fifty from my supplier. Legal? Yes. Ethical? Not one bit, in my personal opinion.

Do you use Bismuth Oxychloride?

If the company comes off as anything, but cheerful to answer questions, (a reasonable number, not give you their formulas), then you are probably in the presence of someone who really cares about you and not only the bottom line. It’s hard work to make a goo product that is creamy, stays on, looks gorgeous and has all the properties you want in makeup without some of the things you are antsy about. You can also look for companies that offer vegan products and what about talc? What about it? It had some arsenic in it back in the ’80’s. We were all scared to death of it and switched to cornstarch and wondered why rashes never cleared up? Talc now has NO arsenic in it. It’s in most of the high-end makeup you buy. I use it in some products, but they are clearly labelled up front and the talc is kept in another part of my formulary. I’d say do your research and try it. Not just the Material Safety Data Sheets either. They make Cornstarch sound like the devil, and we cook with it and have forever. They are required to use the worst case scenario.

What about websites to, “help the consumer choose?” Are they selling anything of their own? I’m suspicious. Especially when broad sweeping statements are made. No product is Satan. Some are both good and bad. Are you inhaling tons of stuff in the air all the time? Yes. When you use mineral makeup you should not be forcing it into your pores in a fifty foot cloud of dust. Even I wear a mask when handling raw product. Mostly for my consumers. I don’t want to sneeze. It’s just safe. I also alcohol it all down, all the time.

Any website that picks and chooses, talks about the glories of Cornstarch and the evils of other products, while not posting the MDS sheet on cornstarch is picking and choosing. They are out there promoting fear of makeup. We have nothing to fear, but fear mongers. Ask good questions. Know your formulator. I buy my supplies from a handful of companies that I 100% trust. I know the people behind the names. I suggest you do too. Will it help me? Sure, I’m not all sunshine and roses, but it also helps the small company that does it because it’s a passion and an art. Not an easy way to take advantage of an industry that is growing and being bashed by people who did not do their research. I blame his producers.

As of this date, Dr Oz has been contacted by hundreds of small mineral makeup companies, asking for a retraction. They deserve it and he deserves to share the truth with his viewers. This is an opportunity for him to talk about people who have your health at the heart of their missions. By not retracting his statements that make sweeping statements about, “all” mineral makeup companies, after receiving letter after letter about it, it seems ratings matter more than the truth to people who help run his show. I have boycotted anyone who makes those statements about any company. No company is all bad. Many are out for a buck, but when you add a board of directors and people who care about ratings, you’ve probably done your people a disservice. Not all big mineral makeup companies use nanoparticles and Bismuth Oxychloride. Read the labels. The FDA cracks down on labeling violations, fast. If your company is in compliance, they will be thrilled you asked. If they get defensive, ask why? Worse, if someone contacts you and asks you about why you made a sweeping generalization ask, “what’s in it for them.” I know people are smart enough to figure it out on their own. Just think.

February 17, 2010

Makeup Stuff for Everyone, A beginner’s Guide Eyes

A makeup kit is not just for makeup artists, it’s for anyone who uses makeup and loves it. These are the very basics you need to start a kit that you can work with and really love. This is series and today we start with eyes.

Brushes. Yes, your fingers are wonderful tools, but those crappy little sponge applicator’s are not. Sorry, I’ve tried, but they make a mess, tend to get overloaded with shadow to the point you’re more likely to put on too much and not be able to blend it off. Then, you either go out looking like a ten cent ho, or wiping if all off and feeling like a failure. Go to YouTube, find someone who shows you eyeshadow techniques you can relate to with colors you love. Watch the video over and over.

If you don’t wear a lot of shadow now, go for the neutral colors, the ones that look good on everyone. Darker skinned women are lucky. They can take a lot more color and the dark and deep shades I adore. However, if you have a darker complexion, African, or Mediterranean, you will have to be very careful to use colors that are darker than your skin tone, and highlights just barely lighter, or you can look ashy. Still better than me and my ability to put on super bright colors that are too much for my small face and frame. I love color. I just wear gloss those days.

I digress. Pick up some decent brushes. Decent does not mean spend a mint at the cosmetics counters in the mall. For your eyes, you need three brushes, all affordable. Revlon makes an eye shadow brush that even the pros love. It’s sturdy, soft and works. You can pack on shadow with it, or go with a very light touch and blend it ever so softly onto your lid, for a barely there look. I cannot recommend it highly enough.

You will also need a blending brush. Sephora and Ulta both have blending brushes made by their companies that are at a healthy price point and deliver. Just remember, blending is just that, blending away harsh lines. It should not be done so hard and so long that you blend the shadow off. Light strokes, and small circular motions. Look for a video later today.

Eye liner. I’m going to make this optional. Some people love eyeliner in stick form and that’s fine. You don’t need brush. I find gel liner easier to work with and more forgiving, but we all learned to use a pencil in school. If you go the pencil route, just keep a GOOD sharpener close by and make sure the consistency is so creamy you don’t have any skips. A skip is when the liner hits a line in your lid (which can start in your twenties) and skips over it. Then, you’re going back and that’s when you muck it up.

If you go the pencil route make sure you have Q-Tips handy to smudge it, blend it and play with it. It also fixes mistakes. If you get eyeliner in the wrong spot, wet the edge of a Q-tip with a non oily makeup remover and gently dot and twist over the area you blew it in. The eyeliner should come off easily, and some of your shadow may too come off, just re-apply in that small area and blend, blend, blend.

For your shadows? Pick two colors without sparkle, or shine. Matte is a great place to start. Sparkle comes later. Even if you THINK you know how to put it on, do this. A compact of two neutral colors should do the trick and they are all over the drugstores as well as the cosmetics counters. Tell the person EXACTLY what you are looking for. Don’t let them talk you into a symphony of yummy color. You can always get those later and once you know what you are doing, you won’t make as many mistakes. If you like the Cosmetic Counter Route, a good place to start is, Bobbi Brown. She is the queen of the gorgeous neutral and will offer you a wealth of choices.

One color should be a shade lighter than your skin and the other two to three shades deeper. That’s it. I know, a lot of people use three colors and that’s great, but mastering one color, just one, or two is going to make it much easier in the future. Even if you are a blending of fifty colors Goddess, just work with two for now. The light color goes all over your eyelid. Just the lid, up to the brow bone. Feel your eyelid. Just above the ball is a crease where the ball of the eye curves in to meet the nerves. That’s the crease. The ridge above that, is your brow bone. Right now, everything is going to happen below your brow bone.

The lighter color is just going to meet your brow bone and go all over the lid from the tear-duct area, to the outside of your eye. Look at your eye. Take a pencil and angle it from the outside of your eyeball, to the end of your brow. Any part of the lid that is within that area should be covered in the lighter color.

Easy, right? Look at your eye. You can go out like this. Really. You don’t have to add any other shadow. For many women, this is enough. Try it. Just one sweep of color and see how it feels for a day. It’s one day of your life.

Okay, you want more. See that crease? Take your brush and open your eye a little. The goal here is to get the color along the crease starting above your pupil, going to the imaginary line we spoke about that goes from the end of your eye, to you brow. No higher than the crease.

Do you have a dark sweep of color along the crease? Good. If not, wipe it off and start again. Put some good music on. Anyone can learn to do this. Yes, I said anyone. I’ve known people with prosthetic limbs who have mastered this, you can too.

Now, you can stop and blend, or take it a step further. Go along that imaginary line to the end of your eye. You made a V. See it? You can go to the bottom, or top of the eyeball with this. Make it dark, so you can really see it. That sideways V is going to open your eyes and make them stand out.

Got it? congrats!!! You’re not done. A big streak of dark color is no really flattering to most woman. Take that blending brush and with the most gentle of gentle strokes, blend the edges of the colors together. Again, there will be a link up on my YouTube channel later today.

Once it’s blended and there are no harsh lines, stand back and admire your work. Pretty? Eye catching without being risky? That’s the look we’re going for here.

I will talk about liner and mascara in the next installment. For now, do your other eye, slap on some mascara and attack the world. You’re eyes are lovely, without being too much for work. Trust me. Check it throughout the day. If you have oily lids you will need an eye primer and it may scooch around on you. Be prepared to touch up in the bathroom mirror. Not at the lunch table, not with a butter knife. PLEASE!!!

Take a picture of your work. You did great.

February 12, 2010

It’s A Breakout! Not Zit Related. LOL!

Yesterday, my best friend came over for girl bonding and to help me organize my house, one room at a time. Lord knows, with my kids I am going to have to be brutal about toy removal. Anyway, She was one of the lucky girls who got the Urban Decay, “Alice in Wonderland,” collection.

Apparently, my usually conservatively dressed friend got a bug and whipped on bright color, including a bright liner on top. The result? Stunning. The color was on until midnight and never budged (Urban Decay, “Primer Potion”) and her whole face looked lit from within.

My point, break out of your old looks every now and again. We all get into ruts, lots of color, very safe and neutral, subtle colors without browns. Which are all wonderful looks and if your comfortable, that’s great, but would it kill us all to drop the intense eye and try an intense lip once in a while? Yes, you love your look, but do you really love it, or is it a comfort level?

Yes, you have fabu eyes, but line them and use a nice mascara and try an intense lip look.

Break out of your shell and find a new one. Be a hermit crab and test out new things!

February 3, 2010

Eyes

Today I used a coupon and a discount a Ulta (amaz-a-balls, they let me use both) on two packages of Maybelline’s new Eye Studio Shadow Palettes. I picked up Sapphire Siren and Give Me Gold (yes please). Both have itty bitty pics on the back to show you how to use all four colors together. Okay, I think that dark line near the lashes is the darkest color. I can’t find my reading glasses.

Both have a HUGE light color, which indicates, to me, that you’re supposed to use that all over your lid, up to your brow-bone, where it becomes your brow highlight. It’s also shown clearly on the inner corner of the eyes.

Although the pictures are clear, again, small. I’m going by what I can see on the package. I like the idea on the package and am impressed with the simplicity of the use of the colors. You’re using four, but you’ve got one under all and the rest are not mixed. Seems like anyone, even me, should be able to master this one the first time out.

Okay, time to open and look at piggie samples. I’m prying the cover off the Gold one. The dark colors can look incredibly pigmented on the hand, but not the eye. It’s the light colors you want to really give a good going over to.

I immediately stuck my thumbnail into the damn color. Lovely. In the case of this palette, not the other one, the first two colors are virtually identical. Rendering no need for one, or the other. Yes, the second color is a tad deeper, but deep enough to justify it? Maybe not.

All colors are quite shimmery, with not a matte in site. Obvious when I purchased them, but in case your store is super lighted, you might miss that. Shimmer shows up best in slightly darker light.

Both palette’s are usable, day or night, even with the shimmer. These colors were one each of the brightest and the most neutral and I’m not sure they could intermix. One is very cool and the other almost neutral, with a tad of warmth in there.

The, “applicators,” are useless to me. That’s normal. I use brushes and that, is that. I also use a good shadow primer with all of my powders and often a paint pot beneath.

I’m looking forward to playing and taking some eye pics. Probably a You Tube Review soon.

Nancy