And the first la shall be…Know what the heck thy is placing on thy face.

Read hype? Listen to TV doctors much? Panic cause certain TV doctors made broad sweeping statements which are not true? This woman posts the best and most understandable information on ingredients in cosmetics. We all know what we put in our bodies, what about on them? Some of us are even label readers, but have you read the incl. lists for what you put on your skin? The largest organ in the body? Our defense against death through heaven’s knows what? Don’t feel bad, most people don’t. This site has good information, well researched and no panic buttons that make us want to run away screaming.

Go visit Swift Craft Monkey. She is a must read for any consumer of cosmetics who cares about wha’s going on their skin and what it does.

I’ve got a, “Downer,” in my life. I love this person, but she has an MBA and no amount of business planning, study on what I’m doing, products I send her (which are all horrible and I don’t know what I’m about. Even if I formulated them per her requests and they are too, insert negativity here).

Dump em. I don’t mean don’t speak to them. Just shut your enthusiastic and scared trap in front of them and learn to, “bean dip.”

“So Nancy, how’s that waste of money and time coming along.”

“Fine, have you tried the bean dip?”

If you’re not at a party come up with something, anything. Preferably about them. People see you as warm and caring when you talk about them and their needs. The day I turned away a close friendship, was the hardest in my life. She was off on a rant about how she gives every bit of her time, talent and energy to everyone else, because she’s so loving and caring. Then, she put me down, through me under the bus to a mutual friend and back-stabbed me so hard, the knife came out of the front of my chest. If you’re reading this, you know who you are.

She’d be someone who would not only wish I would not succeed, deep down, but actively try to, “talk sense into me.”

“You should just get a part time job, instead. I think McDonald’s is hiring.”

I have nothing against working in fast food Work in ennobling, no matter what. Still, real support comes with, “Hey, I found this article online and it talks about what you’re doing and how to be a success. Here’s the link.”

Starting a venture in change? Weight Loss, change in the foods you eat, starting a business? Be careful who you share your dreams with. They don’t have to be with you. Criticism designed to help you is a good thing.
There’s a line there and don’t let anyone cross it. Believe in you.
Study your craft till you know it all, or as much as you can possibly know and go for it.

I believe in you.

Stop saying anything with bad research, just to gain ratings. We, as mineral makeup artists, and we do make art, are well versed in the current science and best information out there. Why is this important? Because I’m about to open my own Mineral Makeup Company? No! Because I’m on forums with people that make creating mineral products the safest, best-for-you product out there. We strive to share information so we give you a product that delivers, but keeps the consumers safety in mind. Yes, there are idiots out there who re-package, think this is easy (dear God. I have learned a universe about minerals and I knew nothing), and it’s not.

Yes, I can buy a huge amount of ready-made product a charge a fortune for it, but those people are always caught. Always. It may take time, but it happens. The mineral community seems huge, but it’s not. We are less than 5000 products on Etsy, the competition is fierce, the market is not large and largely untapped. People like Doctor Oz are making broad sweeping statements about the safety and health hazards about all mineral makeup products based on a few large companies. Idiot. He won’t even respond to the small companies who have sent him e-mail after e-mail about the truth. So here it is. If you read my other blog, you know I, normally, have my ducks in a row. Not only are my ducks in a row here, they’re lined up by breed and sex.

1. All mineral makeup contains Bismuth Oxychloride.

Lie. I don’t use it and neither do most small companies. It’s a pointy little molecule that can gang up on you and make you itch. It’s in almost all of your over the counter makeup, even from large companies. Some say it’s cheap. It’s not, when you line it up with other stuff, but it give amazing luster. I’ve heard people say it’s akin to arsenic. It is close on the periodic table with heavy minerals and is a by-product of mining, however it does occur naturally. It does not contain arsenic. Rolls eyes, but there are darn good reasons not to use it without hysteria. Who wants to itch all day? Not me. If you think you cannot wear eyeshadow, check the back. Put on your reading glasses, what do you see? Bismuth Oxychloride. Dump it and avoid the itch. If you mineral makeup makes you itch when you sweat, look at the first three ingredients. Bismuth? Thought so. Almost all big mineral manufacturers put it in there.

Drugstore mineral makeup is especially bad. No, it’s especially cheap. If the ingredients are as long as your arm, then you’re looking at a regular product that takes advantage of some of the products of mineral makeup and passes it off as such. Don’t be fooled. Mineral makeup usually has a short list of ingredients when small companies make it. Hand picked products to help your skin. Inert products.

2. Cornstarch and Rice Powder:

If you have acne, you have the P. Acne Bacillus bacteria making a cozy little home in your face. Cornstarch and Rice flour feed it. It’s all natural, but you may break out more. I do, if there’s cornstarch in it. Cornstarch and Rice Powder are capable of going bad on you. Make sure your mineral makeup company labels all cornstarch and Rice powder products with a. “Best By,” date. Two years is the max.

Both ingredients are wonderful and have their place. Just know it’s not on skin like mine.

3. NANOPARTICLES!!!!

This is where the good doctor really screwed up. I don’t use nanoparticles. What are they? Micronized products smaller than one nanometer in size. We have dust smaller than that. There are some initial tests out there that have concerned me, and other companies enough to make us set them aside until further testing is done. It’s easier to formulate with them, but honestly, it’s a better and more fun challenge to formulate without. I know very few good quality small companies that use them. The final line that caught me? Another formulator said it, “I care too much about my clients to risk their health, until we have all the facts.” I stopped using them that day, even though I have a lot of money invested in them. I re-formulated from the ground up. We all have. So the statement that all mineral companies use them is patently false. End of story.

4: DYES HELP YOU DIE!

Some dyes are in question. I don’t use those. I do make a choice to use them, but everything is clearly labelled. Afraid of dyes? Look at the companies you’re buying from now. Look at the foods you eat. Think before you run in fear. Read studies. Stay on top of what you put in your body.

5. Colors from Nature are better.

Do they have a preservative? If not, you have germ soup and their still processed. No one is putting bananas in your makeup whole. No one.

6. Minerals are all natural.

Sort of. Oxides are grown in a lab to make sure the color is right. It’s all out of the earth, but they can’t pull rust off cars. The FDA regulates two important things in makeup. Color, to assure it’s safety and ingredient lists, to ensure you’re not lying to your customers. In the State Of Michigan they inspect my scales to make sure you’re getting what you paid for. I don’t worry about that. I calibrate once a week. Most companies do. Short products get a company closed, fast and the word travels.

7. Better to be safe than sorry and get rid of mineral makeup.

Why? When you know you’re getting quality makeup with few ingredients and beautiful payout, why? No reason at all. A good formulator knows what’s in their products and are proud as all get out, about them. They are happy to mail you samples (usually for a small fee) and answer any of your questions. What should your questions be?

Do you use Nanoparticles? If yes, why? Listen to the answer. The testing is not in right now. They may have a good reason.

Do you repackage? I use colors with products I cannot make. I always put them in with products to give them adhesion and blendability. I never re-pack colors you can buy for a buck fifty from my supplier. Legal? Yes. Ethical? Not one bit, in my personal opinion.

Do you use Bismuth Oxychloride?

If the company comes off as anything, but cheerful to answer questions, (a reasonable number, not give you their formulas), then you are probably in the presence of someone who really cares about you and not only the bottom line. It’s hard work to make a goo product that is creamy, stays on, looks gorgeous and has all the properties you want in makeup without some of the things you are antsy about. You can also look for companies that offer vegan products and what about talc? What about it? It had some arsenic in it back in the ’80’s. We were all scared to death of it and switched to cornstarch and wondered why rashes never cleared up? Talc now has NO arsenic in it. It’s in most of the high-end makeup you buy. I use it in some products, but they are clearly labelled up front and the talc is kept in another part of my formulary. I’d say do your research and try it. Not just the Material Safety Data Sheets either. They make Cornstarch sound like the devil, and we cook with it and have forever. They are required to use the worst case scenario.

What about websites to, “help the consumer choose?” Are they selling anything of their own? I’m suspicious. Especially when broad sweeping statements are made. No product is Satan. Some are both good and bad. Are you inhaling tons of stuff in the air all the time? Yes. When you use mineral makeup you should not be forcing it into your pores in a fifty foot cloud of dust. Even I wear a mask when handling raw product. Mostly for my consumers. I don’t want to sneeze. It’s just safe. I also alcohol it all down, all the time.

Any website that picks and chooses, talks about the glories of Cornstarch and the evils of other products, while not posting the MDS sheet on cornstarch is picking and choosing. They are out there promoting fear of makeup. We have nothing to fear, but fear mongers. Ask good questions. Know your formulator. I buy my supplies from a handful of companies that I 100% trust. I know the people behind the names. I suggest you do too. Will it help me? Sure, I’m not all sunshine and roses, but it also helps the small company that does it because it’s a passion and an art. Not an easy way to take advantage of an industry that is growing and being bashed by people who did not do their research. I blame his producers.

As of this date, Dr Oz has been contacted by hundreds of small mineral makeup companies, asking for a retraction. They deserve it and he deserves to share the truth with his viewers. This is an opportunity for him to talk about people who have your health at the heart of their missions. By not retracting his statements that make sweeping statements about, “all” mineral makeup companies, after receiving letter after letter about it, it seems ratings matter more than the truth to people who help run his show. I have boycotted anyone who makes those statements about any company. No company is all bad. Many are out for a buck, but when you add a board of directors and people who care about ratings, you’ve probably done your people a disservice. Not all big mineral makeup companies use nanoparticles and Bismuth Oxychloride. Read the labels. The FDA cracks down on labeling violations, fast. If your company is in compliance, they will be thrilled you asked. If they get defensive, ask why? Worse, if someone contacts you and asks you about why you made a sweeping generalization ask, “what’s in it for them.” I know people are smart enough to figure it out on their own. Just think.

I have my beloved Clarisonic Mia. Seriously, I won’t give it up for anything. It gets the stuff blocking my pores off. Which is great, except where they have Sebaceous Filaments. What’s that? Have small black spots all over your nose? Maybe your cheeks and chin too? Those aren’t blackheads. You push them, a week later they’re back. Why? Those are the openings straight into your oil glands and most dermatologists will tell you they are normal and to deal. Um, no.

Okay, so I have large pores there. That does not mean and will not mean I am going to deal with oxidized oil peeking out. They’re outta here. Still, how to do it without damaging my skin? Pushing them out with my fingers is a recipe for disaster, to say the least. Yes, I’ve stopped picking at my face so much. My dad is thrilled.

Now, I have a program and so far, knock the bedpost, so darn good.

In the morning. I shower and use my Mia with as little cleanser as possible in the shower. All the dead skin comes off, but my face is not done. After I rinse and I have really clean hands (use a brush on my nails), I get out of the shower and pat my face dry. Off to the sink. Right now, I’m using BabyFace cleanser from, Lush. In the future I may switch to a combination of Fractionated Coconut Oil and Jojoba Oil with an emulsifier. We’ll see. I put rub my hands on my Baby face and massage my skin for five to seven minutes In this time, the gentle pressure is helping collagen repair and the oil is not comedogenic, so even if I stay oily, my pores can still make oil for my face. Yep, nuts. I know. Cleaning an oily face with oil. Believe me. I had to be talked into this one on a face forum online. I rinse well with very warm, not hot water and use my regular routine. Benzoyl Peroxide in the morning for unblocking pores and Differin at night, for cell turnover and acne.

The immediate results? No strange flakes of skin on my face. I don’t need worry about a moisturiser. My face feels well hydrated and clean. I don’t look oily. Not after an hour, or even two, etc. If I need a mid-day clean, I just clean it with the oil for a couple of minutes and move on. At night, same routine, no Mia.

The first few days of this, I was horrified. I was sure I was an outbreak ready to happen. Nothing. Now, my sebaceous filaments are far cleaner and because my skin is softer, real blackheads come out with my Tweezerman in seconds. I only get them rarely, where I hold my phone. The spots from the mole removal are almost gone, now and I feel great.

Is this the magic bullet? Give me a month, or two. Facial changes take a while for me to see results with. If it’s going to fail, I’ll have a massive breakout next week. I can deal. if it’s going to work, it will take a month for the mess I have now to heal.

At the end, I powder it with a silk ad pearl powder with zinc I made. That stuff is wonderful for damaged skin. I also am working on external, as well a internal vitamin C. Most of the C carrier oils and solutions have stuff in it that is bad for super oily skin. I need to change the formula, but watch my PH.

Fun!

You would think my decision to not use nanoparticles would make me crazy, and it did, for a while. Now, I see it as a challenge to not only make good product, but pretty product, healthy product with adhesion and slip, blendability and some sun protection. It’s not enough. The moment you cut down on TiO2 and Zinc, you lose your protection from the sun One of the things mineral makeup is known for. So, getting product tested for sun protection, spf, is pricey and most small mineral companies cannot afford it. Just read the incl. If there’s Titanium Dioxide, and Zinc in there, you’re getting some positive anti-sun benefits. Still, use a sunscreen, for cripes sake. You only have one face.

Back to manufacturing. I love my job.

Anyway, we were always HUGE into the term, “Best Practices.” How do you approach the problem in the safest and most efficient way. In Word, it was, “how to best use the features to make a strong and easy to create, legal document. How are documents managed? Stored? Numbered? Which Macro’s does this firm need and no more than they needed. How long to make the classes and how to handle people who didn’t want to convert, without insulting them, etc. So, when I started making makeup, I started thinking, “Best Practice.” These are my thoughts and heaven’s knows I will miss big ones, so feel free to chime in with your thoughts. Another thread reminded me about it and here it is.

Are you a hobby makeup maker? Plan to start a business one day? No? Still, it’s a good idea to get into best practices, even if you’re making makeup for Aunt Sally and your mom. Best practices aren’t just for large corporations and manufacturers. They are for you and your home formulary too. This is what I do, and have been doing since day one.

Alcohol is your friend. High percentage alcohol. All surfaces that come into contact with anything that is going on your face should be cleaned with alcohol. Even if you use something else first. I have 99% alcohol in a small spray bottle and it’s used, a lot. I re-fill that sucker a lot. I got it at Meijer (mid-west big box co) for 99 cents. Spray your pans, surface areas, the outside of all plastic bags, etc with a bit. 99% evaporates so fast you won’t even need to wipe it. If I am using sterile water, the outside gets a few spritzes as well. better to over-spray than under. CLEAN! I

I vacuum my work area at night. That lets it all settle before I go to bed. The dust settles. I dust my area every evening too. I use a magic dust cloth thing on every surface. That includes my books, etc. Anything that may come in contact with my work area. I don’t spray books with alcohol. I’m not that uptight.

When I get a package in, even from Kaila and her triple bagging, I put on gloves and a mask first. Even if the coolest thing in the universe is in that package. I don’t do that for finished Always. Even if it’s only a few things. It’s still possible for the shipper to make a blunder and something goes, “POOF!” I don’t want that in my lungs, on my hands. Everything gets inspected BEFORE I open the box, then plastic bag.

I check the list twice. I’ve never been short-shipped by TKB, but one other place did and I don’t play that.

I give everything that comes in a PO number and every PO number gets recorded when I make a batch of product, even if it’s one eyeshadow. Period. You can buy a workbook at any office supply store, or use Excel, etc. Just record it.

Every batch gets a batch number,. Every BATCH! Even if it’s one eye shadow. If there’s a problem, I can go back to my notes, see the batch number and begin to test to see what the problem was. How I figured out I could not use Bismuth Oxychloride on my skin. There is a way to test. Read the forums. I’m not going to repeat it here, but there is good, great information out there.

Everything gets a label. It may just read, Matte #5. Batch #1, but it goes back to my notes (recorded on paper and later into a spreadsheet) so when I test that product, I know where it came from, what’s in it and how dang much. Don’t get me wrong. I’ve played Frankenstein and not written things down, but those are for me and me alone. I’d never let someone else have it. Just a problem waiting to happen. Our society is litigious and parents have sued children before. I trust my family, but I have four kids. KWIM? Even my sister gets batches of stuff on record. She’s an engineering major and appreciates this. She also thinks that since I don’t have a degree in engineering, that I know nothing about chemicals and makeup. Le Sigh. That’s Sue for ya.

I use all of a product out of one bag and do not mix bags. Can’t nail it down if something goes wrong. No, Kaila does not make mistakes, but who knows what happened to it before she got it? Not me and not her. It’s guarded, and darn safe, but if someone sneezed into something… It’s inert, and basically processed, but oxides are produced in a lab and everyone can have an off day and make one simple mistake. It happens. No ones fault. We’re all human. My job is to protect MY eyes and the eyes of anyone using my stuff. Face and lips and bods too, but I really worry about eyes.

Know what the max usage is for what you are working with. Yes, you can use Titanium Dioxide 100% for cosmetic purposes, but it makes a lot of people itch like fire the moment they sweat. My cheat sheet says, “No more than 30% in any formula.” Not because the limit is 30%, but because it’s, “Best Practices!” Can I hear an amen from the assembled.

Gloves and a mask, gloves and a mask. They make it easy to do my task.

Silly if you’re making it for you? Perhaps a bit of overkill, but what if someone sees it, loves it, and wants some from you and Kaila’s out of an ingredient? Hmmm? Silly, it would never happen? Don’t bet on it. I have a shawl of many colors I created two years ago. If I had ten bucks from everyone who offered to buy it off my back, I’d have one kid’s college paid for. I live in Ann Arbor. It’s very Ann Arbor. I can’t replicate it, cause I used leftover yarn. Some of which was used as a blanket I made for my son who passed. There is no amount of money that would induce me to sell it and it took forever. The cost of making it would be a loss for me. So, best practices, even if you ever plan on letting anyone use it.

Putting makeup on others? Again, best practices. Clean hands, three, “happy birthday songs,” and a nail brush. Most Makeup artists don’t wear gloves. We need to feel texture. So, I use very clean, or disposable brushes and scoop out small amounts of product. Panned shadows, get a spritz of alcohol over them, before I do the other eye and it’s a new brush for each eye. Cost more? Saves me a lawsuit and I have a checklist with a face on it that I check every time I scoop something with a clean scoop, paddle, brush, you name it, along with everything I use on that client. If there is a problem later, they’d have a hard time convincing anyone it was me. They sign it when we are done. 100% protection? No, that’s why I have insurance.

Whew. That’s just scratching the surface and it looks so scary. I’m sorry, cause I’m trying to help you, not weigh you down in BS. This is a world of CYA and CYA is a good thing. A very good thing. You should be so darn proud of yourself that you tell everyone you made it! You should feel you can share your stuff with others. This may be a whole new life for you, or not. Still, best practices will help you be a great formulator. Even if you are formulating for one.

As I always say in my YouTube videos, “Go play with your makeup. Go! No more to see here.”

1. Send the owner of the site a thank you email. They put that information out there for free and taking without thanking is wrong.

2. Always tweak a recipe so it’s not like what you took, if you plan to sell it, or, give the formulator credit. I use recipe books in my kitchen all the time. I always am grateful for those willing to print those recipes for sale, or free. Why? The amount of ingredients used, cannot be copyrighted, only the instructions. A thank you and a link on your site won’t take away from your business, if your product is of excellent quality. Sure, I use recipes, but I give credit and my bases are mine, not theirs.

3. If you can, buy from them, for cripes sake. I’ve purchased from mineral makeup manufacturers, even if I do it myself, because they worked hard and honestly, most of their stuff does not have a recipe. Why should I bust my buns to try to dupe it, if I am going to use it for me alone, Or my bridal clients? Tossing business their way will be good for everyone. If we don’t support real artisans, then we’re not helping one another and in this economy sending some business your way helps us both. I am honest and upright and it comes back to me and you get clients. Works wonders all the way around.

Color Scheme Designer 3

I use it to create colors, compliment colors and just play around with possible eye color combos. That’s not what it’s for, but I love it anyway and the designers are getting a donation from me. As soon as I finish stocking inventory.

Feel you’re boobies, feel them once a month.
Get to know your girls, perhaps take them to lunch.
Feel them in the shower, slippery soap will help.
Have them felt by another, they will be impressed (and happy).

Feel your boobies, and do it quick.
Grab those mammaries, don’t make it hard.
Hell, if you have to, strip off in the backyard.

Don’t keep it to yourself, if you find a bump, or lump.
If the doctor does not listen, trash his ass in the dump.
Get your mammograms, it hardly hurts.
and for finding boobie trouble really works.
Make sure an ultrasound is done too.
It can find things better than you.

So schedule a day, just once a month.
Treat yourself to a facial, maybe some chocolate junk.
Grab your soap and a plastic bag, that can help you feel a teeny bump in your bags.
Even if they’re tiny, even if they’re moobs, you deserve the best, so check those dang things too.

Now, I am done with my lecture, oh so dumb, but I know there are smiles, and clucks of joy today, because as my darling said, “fuck cancer,” anyway.

Seriously, if you develop a lump in your breasts, see a doctor right away. If the doctor refuses you a test, find another one. If you wake up one morning and one breast is suddenly huge, go to the doctor THAT DAY! Doc can’t see you? E.R. Yes, really. This can mean viral breast cancer and it’s serious.

Sue and Serenity should not die in vain. Get it for them, yourself, your family, your dog Peetie. I don’t care. Check your breasts, get your mammogams. It’s not painful for more than a second and honestly, I’d rather have a squashed boob, than wait till it’s too late.

I’ll never forget.