The Over 40 Princess

March 17, 2010

Don’t Let Fear Mongering Scare You. Truth in Makeup

Okay, I said it. There. I’m standing by it too. They believe because a, “doctor said it,” that it’s automatically true. Bull-Pucky! I’m not just standing up for my business here, I’m standing up for all mineral makeup companies run out of people’s homes, small offices and teeny companies. We need to support small, American Brewed Companies and the current swirl of poo-tornado traveling through the US was started by a man I normally admire, Dr. Oz. Grrrr.

Stop saying anything with bad research, just to gain ratings. We, as mineral makeup artists, and we do make art, are well versed in the current science and best information out there. Why is this important? Because I’m about to open my own Mineral Makeup Company? No! Because I’m on forums with people that make creating mineral products the safest, best-for-you product out there. We strive to share information so we give you a product that delivers, but keeps the consumers safety in mind. Yes, there are idiots out there who re-package, think this is easy (dear God. I have learned a universe about minerals and I knew nothing), and it’s not.

Yes, I can buy a huge amount of ready-made product a charge a fortune for it, but those people are always caught. Always. It may take time, but it happens. The mineral community seems huge, but it’s not. We are less than 5000 products on Etsy, the competition is fierce, the market is not large and largely untapped. People like Doctor Oz are making broad sweeping statements about the safety and health hazards about all mineral makeup products based on a few large companies. Idiot. He won’t even respond to the small companies who have sent him e-mail after e-mail about the truth. So here it is. If you read my other blog, you know I, normally, have my ducks in a row. Not only are my ducks in a row here, they’re lined up by breed and sex.

1. All mineral makeup contains Bismuth Oxychloride.

Lie. I don’t use it and neither do most small companies. It’s a pointy little molecule that can gang up on you and make you itch. It’s in almost all of your over the counter makeup, even from large companies. Some say it’s cheap. It’s not, when you line it up with other stuff, but it give amazing luster. I’ve heard people say it’s akin to arsenic. It is close on the periodic table with heavy minerals and is a by-product of mining, however it does occur naturally. It does not contain arsenic. Rolls eyes, but there are darn good reasons not to use it without hysteria. Who wants to itch all day? Not me. If you think you cannot wear eyeshadow, check the back. Put on your reading glasses, what do you see? Bismuth Oxychloride. Dump it and avoid the itch. If you mineral makeup makes you itch when you sweat, look at the first three ingredients. Bismuth? Thought so. Almost all big mineral manufacturers put it in there.

Drugstore mineral makeup is especially bad. No, it’s especially cheap. If the ingredients are as long as your arm, then you’re looking at a regular product that takes advantage of some of the products of mineral makeup and passes it off as such. Don’t be fooled. Mineral makeup usually has a short list of ingredients when small companies make it. Hand picked products to help your skin. Inert products.

2. Cornstarch and Rice Powder:

If you have acne, you have the P. Acne Bacillus bacteria making a cozy little home in your face. Cornstarch and Rice flour feed it. It’s all natural, but you may break out more. I do, if there’s cornstarch in it. Cornstarch and Rice Powder are capable of going bad on you. Make sure your mineral makeup company labels all cornstarch and Rice powder products with a. “Best By,” date. Two years is the max.

Both ingredients are wonderful and have their place. Just know it’s not on skin like mine.

3. NANOPARTICLES!!!!

This is where the good doctor really screwed up. I don’t use nanoparticles. What are they? Micronized products smaller than one nanometer in size. We have dust smaller than that. There are some initial tests out there that have concerned me, and other companies enough to make us set them aside until further testing is done. It’s easier to formulate with them, but honestly, it’s a better and more fun challenge to formulate without. I know very few good quality small companies that use them. The final line that caught me? Another formulator said it, “I care too much about my clients to risk their health, until we have all the facts.” I stopped using them that day, even though I have a lot of money invested in them. I re-formulated from the ground up. We all have. So the statement that all mineral companies use them is patently false. End of story.

4: DYES HELP YOU DIE!

Some dyes are in question. I don’t use those. I do make a choice to use them, but everything is clearly labelled. Afraid of dyes? Look at the companies you’re buying from now. Look at the foods you eat. Think before you run in fear. Read studies. Stay on top of what you put in your body.

5. Colors from Nature are better.

Do they have a preservative? If not, you have germ soup and their still processed. No one is putting bananas in your makeup whole. No one.

6. Minerals are all natural.

Sort of. Oxides are grown in a lab to make sure the color is right. It’s all out of the earth, but they can’t pull rust off cars. The FDA regulates two important things in makeup. Color, to assure it’s safety and ingredient lists, to ensure you’re not lying to your customers. In the State Of Michigan they inspect my scales to make sure you’re getting what you paid for. I don’t worry about that. I calibrate once a week. Most companies do. Short products get a company closed, fast and the word travels.

7. Better to be safe than sorry and get rid of mineral makeup.

Why? When you know you’re getting quality makeup with few ingredients and beautiful payout, why? No reason at all. A good formulator knows what’s in their products and are proud as all get out, about them. They are happy to mail you samples (usually for a small fee) and answer any of your questions. What should your questions be?

Do you use Nanoparticles? If yes, why? Listen to the answer. The testing is not in right now. They may have a good reason.

Do you repackage? I use colors with products I cannot make. I always put them in with products to give them adhesion and blendability. I never re-pack colors you can buy for a buck fifty from my supplier. Legal? Yes. Ethical? Not one bit, in my personal opinion.

Do you use Bismuth Oxychloride?

If the company comes off as anything, but cheerful to answer questions, (a reasonable number, not give you their formulas), then you are probably in the presence of someone who really cares about you and not only the bottom line. It’s hard work to make a goo product that is creamy, stays on, looks gorgeous and has all the properties you want in makeup without some of the things you are antsy about. You can also look for companies that offer vegan products and what about talc? What about it? It had some arsenic in it back in the ’80’s. We were all scared to death of it and switched to cornstarch and wondered why rashes never cleared up? Talc now has NO arsenic in it. It’s in most of the high-end makeup you buy. I use it in some products, but they are clearly labelled up front and the talc is kept in another part of my formulary. I’d say do your research and try it. Not just the Material Safety Data Sheets either. They make Cornstarch sound like the devil, and we cook with it and have forever. They are required to use the worst case scenario.

What about websites to, “help the consumer choose?” Are they selling anything of their own? I’m suspicious. Especially when broad sweeping statements are made. No product is Satan. Some are both good and bad. Are you inhaling tons of stuff in the air all the time? Yes. When you use mineral makeup you should not be forcing it into your pores in a fifty foot cloud of dust. Even I wear a mask when handling raw product. Mostly for my consumers. I don’t want to sneeze. It’s just safe. I also alcohol it all down, all the time.

Any website that picks and chooses, talks about the glories of Cornstarch and the evils of other products, while not posting the MDS sheet on cornstarch is picking and choosing. They are out there promoting fear of makeup. We have nothing to fear, but fear mongers. Ask good questions. Know your formulator. I buy my supplies from a handful of companies that I 100% trust. I know the people behind the names. I suggest you do too. Will it help me? Sure, I’m not all sunshine and roses, but it also helps the small company that does it because it’s a passion and an art. Not an easy way to take advantage of an industry that is growing and being bashed by people who did not do their research. I blame his producers.

As of this date, Dr Oz has been contacted by hundreds of small mineral makeup companies, asking for a retraction. They deserve it and he deserves to share the truth with his viewers. This is an opportunity for him to talk about people who have your health at the heart of their missions. By not retracting his statements that make sweeping statements about, “all” mineral makeup companies, after receiving letter after letter about it, it seems ratings matter more than the truth to people who help run his show. I have boycotted anyone who makes those statements about any company. No company is all bad. Many are out for a buck, but when you add a board of directors and people who care about ratings, you’ve probably done your people a disservice. Not all big mineral makeup companies use nanoparticles and Bismuth Oxychloride. Read the labels. The FDA cracks down on labeling violations, fast. If your company is in compliance, they will be thrilled you asked. If they get defensive, ask why? Worse, if someone contacts you and asks you about why you made a sweeping generalization ask, “what’s in it for them.” I know people are smart enough to figure it out on their own. Just think.

March 15, 2010

Another Desperate Attempt at Clear Skin

Hmmm, do I sound like a woman on a mission of, “Indiana Jones,” proportions? Pack up my backpack, I’m off. I’ve tried it all, and I’m getting close, but something is missing.

I have my beloved Clarisonic Mia. Seriously, I won’t give it up for anything. It gets the stuff blocking my pores off. Which is great, except where they have Sebaceous Filaments. What’s that? Have small black spots all over your nose? Maybe your cheeks and chin too? Those aren’t blackheads. You push them, a week later they’re back. Why? Those are the openings straight into your oil glands and most dermatologists will tell you they are normal and to deal. Um, no.

Okay, so I have large pores there. That does not mean and will not mean I am going to deal with oxidized oil peeking out. They’re outta here. Still, how to do it without damaging my skin? Pushing them out with my fingers is a recipe for disaster, to say the least. Yes, I’ve stopped picking at my face so much. My dad is thrilled.

Now, I have a program and so far, knock the bedpost, so darn good.

In the morning. I shower and use my Mia with as little cleanser as possible in the shower. All the dead skin comes off, but my face is not done. After I rinse and I have really clean hands (use a brush on my nails), I get out of the shower and pat my face dry. Off to the sink. Right now, I’m using BabyFace cleanser from, Lush. In the future I may switch to a combination of Fractionated Coconut Oil and Jojoba Oil with an emulsifier. We’ll see. I put rub my hands on my Baby face and massage my skin for five to seven minutes In this time, the gentle pressure is helping collagen repair and the oil is not comedogenic, so even if I stay oily, my pores can still make oil for my face. Yep, nuts. I know. Cleaning an oily face with oil. Believe me. I had to be talked into this one on a face forum online. I rinse well with very warm, not hot water and use my regular routine. Benzoyl Peroxide in the morning for unblocking pores and Differin at night, for cell turnover and acne.

The immediate results? No strange flakes of skin on my face. I don’t need worry about a moisturiser. My face feels well hydrated and clean. I don’t look oily. Not after an hour, or even two, etc. If I need a mid-day clean, I just clean it with the oil for a couple of minutes and move on. At night, same routine, no Mia.

The first few days of this, I was horrified. I was sure I was an outbreak ready to happen. Nothing. Now, my sebaceous filaments are far cleaner and because my skin is softer, real blackheads come out with my Tweezerman in seconds. I only get them rarely, where I hold my phone. The spots from the mole removal are almost gone, now and I feel great.

Is this the magic bullet? Give me a month, or two. Facial changes take a while for me to see results with. If it’s going to fail, I’ll have a massive breakout next week. I can deal. if it’s going to work, it will take a month for the mess I have now to heal.

At the end, I powder it with a silk ad pearl powder with zinc I made. That stuff is wonderful for damaged skin. I also am working on external, as well a internal vitamin C. Most of the C carrier oils and solutions have stuff in it that is bad for super oily skin. I need to change the formula, but watch my PH.

Fun!

February 19, 2010

Lovely Updo from Total Beauty

Romantic hair for almost every type of hair. Super straight will need more help in terms of a gel, or mousse, but this would work for even my hair, but for all the most humid days.

See this and other ideas at, Total Beauty.

February 5, 2010

Review, Lush Baby Face CLeanser

Love this cleanser

Love this cleanser

Last summer, I’d say August, I was given a sample of, “Baby Face Cleanse.” I’d expressed frustration with every other makeup remover I’d tried. My eyelids are very sensitive and always red. If I drag most makeup removers over them, including ones for sensitive eyes, they actually peel. That makes it hard for me to wear eye makeup and I’m a makeup artist. Sheesh.

So the woman at Lush handed me a sliver of, “Baby Face.” Which seemed impossibly small. I got on the Internet and researched the product. Armed with my information and my sliver of Baby Face, a face full of waterproof makeup, I hit the bathroom. My makeup came off. I mean right away, even the waterproof stuff. ALL OF IT! Okay, great, but my face is so dang oily, I feel like I can power every car in Michigan. This was BOUND to lead to breakouts.

Next morning, no flaking skin (I took it off with a damp facial sponge and washed with my normal cleanser) and NO NEW ZITS! IK am forty six and break out like a teen. No zits means the world to me. I used my sliver, and used it, and used it and used it. That stupid sliver of, “Baby Face,” lasted months. I mean of everyday use. I finally got it small enough to justify buying it for myself. Forget it. I cut it up and put it in small bags for my clients. I’ll buy another one for me. Okay, maybe more than one. I want to pass this around. On days I plan a deep clean, complete with careful and taught, blackhead extraction (almost all gone now), I use, “Baby Face,” first, then wash with my regular stuff after and my face does not get red, or inflamed. I recently had three moles removed and am using an anti-bacterial product during the day and, Baby Face, at night. My scars are healing nicely. I also used it on a recent tattoo (family names on it and a special something for my son who passed) and the healing is great. Only one small area that is stubborn and that’s because I scratched at it, before I started in on the, Baby Face.”

This is a product I would give a ten out of ten for. Does what it says, does not break out the break out Queen and has wonderful abilities to get stubborn eye makeup off. Go Lush!

Note, “Baby Face,” is a solid cleanser, meant for dry skin. Its oil based and probably comedigenic. If I were a Teen, I would not think of using it. As an older woman, even with breakouts, it’s a Godsend, but I never leave it on for long, except were I am healing something. It’s a great product.

December 26, 2009

Beauty Favorites of 2009

All products can be found in the links and I suggest these stores because of their commitment to customer service.

There will be more on my vlog, but these are some of the things I loved in 2009. Too Faced Shadow Insurance. All my eye primers do a good job, this stuff glues my shadow in place all day, no matter how chalky it starts out. Ala, Coastal Scents. Which I love, but can be very fly-away. I buy a lot of my higher end stuff at Sephora. I’ve found them to be superior to Ulta in many ways. Mostly in customer service. Don’t lead me to the Revlon when I want Urban Decay and told you so twice. It does not matter that I’m in Yoga Pants and a workout top. I want what I want and I am not looking for judgement, thank you.

Coastal Scents Gel Liners. Superior, in my opinion, to MAC Paint Pots. They are waterproof and in a side by side test conducted on Youtube by makeupbytiffanyd, they are shown to be as good with the staying power of MAC. At a third of the price. I use them under my shadows to create amazing color. I didn’t link directly to that video, rather her channel, because all of her videos are really good. She’s totally into MAC, but in the bridal market, you really need to be.

NYX products. Which can be found on their site, or in many other places. I suggest Pinkholik. They have great prices and amazing customer service.

TKB Trading anything. I am delighted with this company. Beyond delighted. They are super fast with shipping and have colors I’ve never dreamed of in stock and plenty of stuff to make your own eyeshadow from, along with recipes. I am totally in love.

Zoya Nail Polish. Colors, staying power, everything about it. I have the catalog of colors, because I bought my first set through Zoya and I swear I want every darn one of them. It’s sad.

Vera Wang Rock Princess Perfume. I buy one new perfume a year and usually it lasts me two years, so I always have two to choose from. The combination of Betsey Johnson and Vera Wang Rock Princess (cheap at T.J. Maxx) is a perfect compliment to my moods and wardrobe. One of them always works well on me. The only problem is, that as oily as I get, perfume does not last on me. I need an atomizer for them.

My Flat Iron. Not expensive, Revlon(available in every store that sells curling irons, etc), but I never thought I would want, nor need a Flatiron. I can’t live without it anymore. I use it about half and half with my curling iron. When I do my hair.

Urban Decay 24/7 Eye Pencil in 0. WOW!!!!! It stays all day, if I set it with powder. I use Kat Von D’s Motorhead in either side, depending on my desire for sparkle.

Speaking of Kat Von D, I am in love with her shadows. I can find exactly what I want every time.

What I still want? Some NYX, Graftobian foundations for my kit, and buckets of bobby pins for clients. Oh, and Mildew from Urban Decay. I love, love, love that color. It’s in the Show Pony box, which would be a good investment for the end of the year and tax deductible, since it’s for work. I’ve been reading tax laws for services and man, it’s complicated.

November 23, 2009

Grrr, I’ve been trying to make these…

Awesome skirts I have in my head, for about two weeks now. Today, come hell, or high water, I will cut them out . This afternoon sew one, tomorrow the other. I’ve got this killer idea for a skirt using industrial zippers.

I’m also about to cave and buy, don’t laugh, a Bedazzler. Why? I like studs and I found a place online that sells butt-loads of studs for the darn thing for cheap. I want studded belts and handbags, using the leather I’m about to purchase. End pieces from a company in bright colors. I can’t wait to make purses out of them. CANNOT WAIT!!! I also have the coolest fake snakeskin from JoAnne’s of all places. I am cutting it into a belt, something else and a purse today. It needs studs. It also needs a lining, but I’ve got that covered. Nothing fancy, no pockets on the inside, just color and fun. This thing has a shimmer to it and is croc embossed. All the fun, without killing a croc. Of course, the croc can kill back, making it a sort of, “Bambi with a Gun.” I think it’s wonderfully ironic.

Still, I will wear somehow leather, but getting away from it more and more as really good substitutes become available. I like the idea of synthetics, although they use oil. I have a lot of bamboo and organic cotton in my stash now. Gentle on the earth, just share with the Pandas.